Soixante-Dix Finale!!!

When I say that it rhymes. Not so much when the French do!

Back to Paris for the final few days of Together In France, though Gene is enjoying the trip through Mary’s eyes now. We used Eurostar through the chunnel which turned out great, though there was no perceptible or lengthy period of under ocean travel. Really kinda mundane for such an engineering feat. Our experience was much enhanced by Mary’s approach to agent Stephane upon arrival to St Pancreas Station. We were early, quite early, to be cautious about possible National Rail strike influence and observe the recommended arrival time. When Mary showed Stephane our ticket he quickly took us to Priority Class, booked us on an earlier flight and moved us to that security line. We were golden!!

We seem to have a knack for arriving to destinations in rain. But it didn’t last long. Our trip in from the train station was delayed by a peaceful protest of Muslim nations in the center of Paris in support of Mahsa Amini, the 22-year-old Kurdish Iranian woman recently in the news, believed beaten she died while in police custody – arrested by the morality police for failure to wear her hijab. A sobering reminder of the freedoms I have (hope to keep) and threats to women everywhere.

Checked in and a bit disappointed in our Rick Steve’s $$$ hotel recommendation again (more in a post script later on this). But the Marias neighborhood has things to recommend it, Place Des Vosges for one. Had a outdoor cafe drink here and returned to Cafe Hugo for a nice dinner. We’re back in Paris!

Place des Vosges
Fall seems to have arrived since we’ve been in London.
Place de la Bastille

Paris Sans Gene! 10/3-10/6

Really does feel and look like fall our first day here. Got ourselves to the Louvre and gave up, but persevered in our museum quest with the jewel that is L’Orangerie. We weren’t exactly early arrivals to the Tuileries or the Musee du Louvre grounds and palais, but there was still a fog that hid the Eiffel Tower from us until well after noon.

Oops. I’m pretty sure I told Mary she’d hardly show up in this one so she’d look great!
In the middle of the photo you can (not) see the Eiffel Towers tip.
Palais from Tuileries
Not sure how my panorama shot did this – you’re actually in the middle of a circular room
completely surrounded by canvases of Monet’s Gardens.
Monet’s Waterlilies

Having expended as much energy as we had, we walked back to the hotel and a nap overcame me!! Did wake in time to eat once again …… no surprise. Walked to Ile St Louis, one of two islands in the Seine near us.

We had a delightful time at dinner – lovely food and a most personable gay waiter who exclaimed “Let’s go” each time we made another decision about our meal! It was gourmet dining and beautiful food even in the “no reservation” section of the restaurant. 🍷🍷

Mary and I do have fun together!!!
I can’t remember what to call this now, but the dessert wine was a wonderful addition to our meal.
We went to bed with smiles this evening.

We woke to the sun again!

Even the City of Lights looks better with sun and blue skies. Our day was steeped in beautiful art at Musee D’Orsay. As Mary appreciated the Impressionists, I went to the newly arrived Edvard Munch show since I’d already been on our arrival to France.

Munch is most famous for The Scream (more evocative in Norwegian “Geschrei”) in lithograph.
Also Munch – who knew he created less tortured works of art?
He has a rather incredible series called The Stairs I found unique.
I call this “Munch and Lunch”!
A nice museum lunch and we had a sunny walk along the riverside promenade to the Marais again.
The unique book stalls along the Seine are part souvenir shop now. Maybe they always were.
Notre Dame seems more intact than I might have imagined it’d be. But there are still YEARS of restoration ahead.
A little parc very near our digs.

Our stroll involved a search for the ice cream famous on St. Louis – took us some time (and a 20+ min sit down waiting for ice cream at the wrong place that didn’t arrive – it was “too hard”????) but we did eventually find the most excellent Berthillon’s and thoroughly enjoyed our cones on the walk.

And then either a nap or some downtime depending on which one of us you are!

Voila! The courtyard prominently displayed on the website and brochure was undiscovered until Day 3. Mary brought down our complimentary wine and some nuts to enjoy the space. (Didn’t quite meet expectation, but enjoyable and quiet all the same.)

Really our last day in Paris.

The weather gods took pity on us and the overcast sky turned to a gorgeous blue while we were in the Louvre. From dark to sunny we could see the Eiffel Tower today.

The building is as stunning as the art is remarkable.
Nike (Winged Victory) of Samothrace. I find this sculpture quite impactful.

We visited our favorites, but I believe the crowds or our “end of trip weary bodies” meant this wasn’t the top experience of our travels in Europe this time round.

We looked at the mobs trying to see the Mona Lisa and knew it wasn’t worth it to us.

I left satisfied, but with the thought that cell phones haven’t been good for art experiences. We watched one man simply walk the length of a huge exhibit area with his iPhone taking video without ever pausing. Art monetized by tourism is discouraging. Perhaps just symptomatic of hoards of travelers unleashed by the subdued Covid pandemic.

We had a nice, rather refined white tablecloth lunch and drinks just next to the Louvre. We’re winding down.

The Metro in all it’s art nouveau glory is great!

We picked up the few things we’re willing to bring back in our luggage on the way to the hotel. For me that meant chocolates mostly.

Our last evening in Paris found us back at the convivial Place des Vosges for a simple outdoor meal near our hotel. We kept meaning to make it to a jazz supper club, but somehow never found the excitement or energy to make it happen. Tonight we didn’t manage to get a table where the trendy, younger Parisians were settled as we’d set out to do. I might’ve felt old there anyway! But we walked about the Marais Arrondissement (neighborhood), saw the Jewish District and found we would leave without seeing all the quaint, high end shops and streets. There is always something to make you think you can come back and find new adventures to engage or simply settle into being a make believe local.

Had creme brulee and glace desserts, were chatted up by some men at a nearby table, waited out the surprise rain and went back to the hotel to pack.

Our earlier airline changed itinerary causes us to leave at a god awful time in the morning. But we survive and live for another trip!!!!

PDX

After a long flight, Gene’s limosine service was a dream! Nice to see him, chat briefly, watch Mary check her fish and garden and I left with tomatoes and basil. The aroma filled their backyard sanctuary as she picked it!

Home to fall crocuses, sunny warm weather, wooly caterpillars on my walks and the furor of mid-term campaigns!

Together in France was a Covid delayed promise fulfilled. To live through the pandemic to begin to explore the joys of life again and travel while Covid tenaciously stays with us is a small wonder. Part science, part humanity. That Gene joined us was special – international travel isn’t really his thing. I hope he enjoys the memories he is part of. I’m fortunate to have friends who will travel with me. I think the “Lucy’s” will travel again:)

I’m ready to plan my next trip . . . . . destination unknown! 70’s not so bad.

One thought on “Soixante-Dix Finale!!!

  1. What a lovely trip! And those of us following got to travel vicariously. Glad your entry into the “70’s” was so memorable.

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