Dobre rano slunicko or Good Morning, Sunshine to you!!!!

We decided on a change of breakfast fare and found our neighborhood Food Lab to be a treat! Crepes and great coffee all served pleasantly and with WiFi!!!! We’re easier to please some days than others!

Today was a day of infrastructure accomplishments. We found the post and also used the metro. We’ve found Prague imminently walkable. Both worked fine but we always expect to beat our postcards back home!

Back through the castle grounds for the last time.

Lunch at the Panorama Pergola. Which included the discovery of the afternoon cocktail of the trip, the Aperol Spritz!

And back down for our last Old Town stroll. Forgot to mention that yesterday the square was hockey madness! They had a televised screen for the game and the Czech colors were everywhere. Festive atmosphere and we have no idea who won!!!

Dinner at Al Dente (best ice cream we’ve had this trip – artisan pistachio and deepest chocolate. Good thing we didn’t find it earlier since it was only steps from the hotel!)

And the evening starts a rainy departure.

Sbohem, Prague.

(That’s bye”)

Prague – Jewish Quarter (May 25)

We spent the day learning from our private guide, Barboro. She gave us a Czech history lesson, but most importantly provided thoughtful structure and education about the arc of Judaism in the Czech Republic. I needed basic information about the religious and cultural touch points and I now know a teeny bit more. I am grateful to have spent time with her.

The names of Czech Jews murdered during the holocaust are printed in the Pinka Sova Synagogue walls. It’s sobering.

The synagogue is now a museum and there are few Jews remaining in Prague. The Star Nova/New-Old Synogogue is tiny and the only one yet holding worship services. Some of the things we learned emphasized the cruelty of the Nazi extermination design intended to insult their religious beliefs and tenets. The history is preserved Barbora says because Hitler intended a museum of the elimination of their race. The local Jewish community proposed using empty synagogues to store Jewish history and objects. The Nazi’s agreed, supervised them to completion and then transported the religious academics who curated the collection to their deaths. Reopened some time after the war and with a woman administrator at the head.

Barbora shares that as a result of Catholic religion imposed upon the Czechs historically and banned during the communist era, Czechs largely identify as atheist (she was careful to say not agnostic). This differs from Poland where Catholicism is predominant.

Though this is from a couple days hence, I think I’ll share our return to the Jewish Quarter to visit the Spanelska Synagogue/Spanish Synagogue.

Note the Star of David in the chandelier.

Again this synagogue is part of their museum system, but on the other end of a design continuum. Where the other synagogues we visited were simple in architectural detail, this is a grand and opulent Jewish synagogue. Colorful and gilded.

Old Town Hall Astronimical Clock – 1350. Has three time conventions aligned and an hourly moving disciple show (glockenspiel style) which we managed to miss every time we were in the square.

The city and its square are quite spectacular and busy. It’s very metropolitan here and tourism is notable. If we were high end shoppers we’d be in paradise!

We’re nestled in a residential area just off the square that’s quieter and has a bit more of the old city look.

We just enjoyed cafe life after our walking tour and ended our day with dinner at the Mincova bar in the square. Both of us had Czech traditional meals – heavy on the beef! Which just means an excuse for wine. And we’re finding some reds that are nice.

Dobrou Noc.

Hradcany Castle Quarter

We made a sweeping walk from Old Town through the Strahov Monastery, it’s gardens and into the castle grounds and dropped back down to the Vltava River today. We wandered through the Little Quarter that is quietly classy with green spaces before our ride up on the lanovka/ funicular to their “Eiffelesque” Petrin Tower (we found it not worth the effort). But the views, trees and orchards were more than worth the walk!!

Hradcany Castle or Prazsky Hrad and it’s grounds are on a grand scale. The entrance is traditional pomp and circumstance. Beginning with St Vitus’ Cathedral the castle impresses. The president actually works here (as do buildings worth of administrative types), but no one lives in the two castle residences on the grounds. There is a little lane of houses/shops on Golden Lane that are historical in appearance if not function any longer. It’s colorful and quaint.

St Vítus Cathedral

Golden Lane – the castle shops.

Before we got to the castle, we spent some time in the Strahov Monastery with it’s beer garden, beautiful white buildings and library. Really lovely and peaceful in their courtyards and gardens.

Yes, we were there together!! A monastery beer (pivo) garden stop.

Lunch at the Bella Vista was a relaxing indulgence with great food, wine and a view to die for!!

We put some miles on our sandals today and loved each step. Had dinner in our neighborhood – at Rick Steves recommended establishment called “Lokal”. It is supposed to evoke the communist era lack of hospitality in service but with good quality, value food. Mary is going to write on the RS’s site to say it’s unworthy of the recommendation…… makes me laugh. It was inexpensive and a definite hipster hangout – we had to wait for a table. But my memories of the Bella Vista will outlast those of the Lokal!!!!

Walked around the square again in search of a more atmospheric dessert and ended the day with the murmur of tourists around us.

Krasne sny.

I’m a bit obsessed with the mosaics we walk upon….

Sgraffito, not to be confused with graffiti, is a building exterior style we’re seeing in varying degrees of complexity (this very simple compared to the murals on town hall) which is essentially a scratching off of plaster to a lower level leaving a relief pattern.

In Prague our hotel has chandeliers but not stable WiFi!!! I’ll keep trying!

Hotel Hastal

Old Town hotels sometimes have internet challenges …… and I’m out and about rather than sitting in the lobby where it works. So, when I can I’ll share Prague!

This sculpture is called “Man Hanging On”. It’s in the New Town and represents Sigmund Freud’s ambivalence about living versus suicide. Who knew he had a Czech pedigree?

Krakow to Prague

This was a travel day by private car. Michal, our driver, had a great smile and sweet disposition. He will soon be a new dad and he shared his excitement. He’d worked in upstate New York just after university and traveled the US before his return, so we had lots to talk about with his excellent English. I can’t help but comment that we’ve encountered very centered, steady young men on the trip – 23 year old Michal commented at one point that “things” are not the way to happiness. (I might suggest travel is!)

The weather stayed dreary with downpours and we bypassed the short side tour we’d planned as a result.

Settled in our fifth generation old town hotel, we have days ahead of us to see Prague!!! Walked round the corner for a simple meal and Mary ran into her old dog groomer and boarder!!! We had lots of fun chatting over dinner and wine about Riley.

The world is both large and small!!

We’re happily tucked in for the night.

Dobros noc!

Krakow

The rain finally found us! Had to buy our “trip umbrella” this afternoon – we keep hoping we’ll one day have a trip without the need. But we’re warm and cozy, packing up to leave Krakow. We liked this city and it’s people!

St Mary’s Church in the Main Square was opulent.

We took refuge in Pod Baranem during a particularly savage deluge and enjoyed sharing another serving of Potato Pancakes w/Hungarian Goulash and mid-afternoon wine. Had a salad to assuage our dietary consciences … then had dessert and coffee for dinner after a beautiful Chopin piano concert in an upstairs salon just off the square. (We had to have the desserts to use up our zloty’s!)

Do widzenia, Cracow!!!!

Krakow

I’m sitting in the orangery in our hotel thinking of what/how to share the experience of Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II – Birkenau. I’m uncertain how to give words to the swirling impressions and heaviness of heart. I am appalled at what I didn’t/undoubtedly still do not know.

Work Sets You Free

The machinations of killing were perversely applied. And our guide reminded us they “constantly evolved to murder more efficiently and faster”. Even after they knew they were losing the war and were destroying the evidence of their immoral acts.

The numbers are staggering, especially when daily deaths are recounted by our guide. With the reminder that there were six death camps in Poland and Germany to amplify the horrific reality of lives exterminated.

There will be no further photos shared by me. We didn’t take but a few. It was a profound experience. Standing where prisoners guilty of being themselves (Polish dissidents or those who were future possible enemies of the German State ie Roma’s, homosexuals, 9 year old girls in the wrong place) undressed on command before walking to the gas chambers (placid dignity and misplaced hope on display), being told again of the complicit world that knew what was happening and did not find a way to stop “the final solution” sooner. Mary and I both had a visceral reaction to the display of huge piles of hair from the shorn heads of prisoners in Auschwitz that were sold back to German companies who made fabric from it – it seemed such a callous assault on their persons. The pretense and deceit until death of the promises of resettlement, telling them to put their names on the luggage for ease of getting it back when it was simply plundered. Selecting prisoners as slave laborers who were coerced into enriching the coffers of Nazi Germany or manufacturing the chemicals or munitions that supported the war and the death camps – until they could not work and were killed.

Truly crimes against humanity for which few were held accountable.

Krakow

Thought it time I appeared – this was yesterday in the Jagiellonian University Collegium Maius. The site of a Nazi round up of academics to blunt dissension.

Jewish Quarter Main Square

Today was a day more of experience than photos. We visited Schindler’s Factory Museum and began our journey into the history of the holocaust and the once large Jewish community of Krakow. It’s thought provoking. It’s beyond comprehension and yet real beyond my ability to believe. It also reveals to me again how little I know of Jewish religion and culture.

Then we spent time getting turned around in the small historic Jewish quarter, wandering street to street. We found we enjoyed the klezmer music floating across the square and the quiet, prayerful Old Jewish Cemetery (1552-1800) and intimate Remu’h Synagogue.

Each rock represents a prayer.

Our evening was spent in the company of other travelers with Camilla (Delicious Poland) on an extensive walking Polish food tour! Even after a walk home we’re satiated!! Between the new flavors (Rye Grass Vodka, Easter Sour Soup, Christmas Eve Beet Root Soup, Potato pancakes/latkes with Goulash, variations of their beloved pork lard spread which I’ve tried several times now and can live without) and the portions and courses we may not need to eat for days………

Zapiekanka – a yummy bread, cheese and mushroom bread.

• Two shots Polish vodka
• Four appetizers
• Two soups with rustic bread
• Zapiekanki
• 3 entrees (Potato Latke w/goulash, sauerkraut stew, cabbage roll, beet root salad, and two kinds of pierogi
• Apple dessert w/fruit sour cream
• Two craft beers

We nearly escaped two major downpours today! Thunder and lightning – the whole shabang !! And each time the sun burst out afterwards.

Walked home to work off some of the gluttony and plotted how to end our stay in Krakow without having leftover zlotney’s in our wallets when we leave Wednesday morning. This city has been more interesting than I’d expected. It’s much more than the city to make the pilgrimage to Auschwitz from.

Nostrovia!!!

(That’s what we wished each other as we downed shots of vodka – pronounced wodka here).

Central Europe 2019

Mary and I have waited a long time to make this trip. Originally scheduled September 2018, Vicki’s death in August caused us to postpone. My gratitude to my travel partner, Mary, for understanding my need to wait before we embarked.

Not unlike every other trip I take, more “to-do’s” than can get done the night before!!! It felt like more than usual yesterday, especially when my building had a full on fire alarm test from 7:30 a.m. on…… Neither Gaia or I were happy. Gaia is staying with the Nichols while I’m gone!

Travel went without difficulty and we’re pleased with Hotel Wawel and our initial night here in CRACOW/Krakow, Poland. The market is lovely and the architecture is shown off by 70’s and blue sky. We’re smiling!!

St Mary’s ChurchMain Market SquareJan Matejki/Painter in Planty Park ((Moat filled park ringing the city over the medieval walls). Florian GatePolish beer and a refreshing Polish drink called a “Mosquito” for some yet unknown reason!

Wawel castle

Moody Sky and some Polish wine and tapas ends our beautiful day .We’ve encountered pleasant, polite, helpful people at every turn -even Pawlik at the lost luggage desk charmed me. They speak English with ease which is a good thing since we’re butchering Polish!! It’s a warm experience so far. Dobranoc. And forgive my stumbling with a new blog app – I’ll get it before the trip ends!