Hotel Hastal
Old Town hotels sometimes have internet challenges …… and I’m out and about rather than sitting in the lobby where it works. So, when I can I’ll share Prague!
This sculpture is called “Man Hanging On”. It’s in the New Town and represents Sigmund Freud’s ambivalence about living versus suicide. Who knew he had a Czech pedigree?
Krakow to Prague
This was a travel day by private car. Michal, our driver, had a great smile and sweet disposition. He will soon be a new dad and he shared his excitement. He’d worked in upstate New York just after university and traveled the US before his return, so we had lots to talk about with his excellent English. I can’t help but comment that we’ve encountered very centered, steady young men on the trip – 23 year old Michal commented at one point that “things” are not the way to happiness. (I might suggest travel is!)
The weather stayed dreary with downpours and we bypassed the short side tour we’d planned as a result.
Settled in our fifth generation old town hotel, we have days ahead of us to see Prague!!! Walked round the corner for a simple meal and Mary ran into her old dog groomer and boarder!!! We had lots of fun chatting over dinner and wine about Riley.
The world is both large and small!!
We’re happily tucked in for the night.
Dobros noc!
Krakow
The rain finally found us! Had to buy our “trip umbrella” this afternoon – we keep hoping we’ll one day have a trip without the need. But we’re warm and cozy, packing up to leave Krakow. We liked this city and it’s people!
St Mary’s Church in the Main Square was opulent.
We took refuge in Pod Baranem during a particularly savage deluge and enjoyed sharing another serving of Potato Pancakes w/Hungarian Goulash and mid-afternoon wine. Had a salad to assuage our dietary consciences … then had dessert and coffee for dinner after a beautiful Chopin piano concert in an upstairs salon just off the square. (We had to have the desserts to use up our zloty’s!)
Do widzenia, Cracow!!!!
Krakow
I’m sitting in the orangery in our hotel thinking of what/how to share the experience of Auschwitz I and Auschwitz II – Birkenau. I’m uncertain how to give words to the swirling impressions and heaviness of heart. I am appalled at what I didn’t/undoubtedly still do not know.
Work Sets You Free
The machinations of killing were perversely applied. And our guide reminded us they “constantly evolved to murder more efficiently and faster”. Even after they knew they were losing the war and were destroying the evidence of their immoral acts.
The numbers are staggering, especially when daily deaths are recounted by our guide. With the reminder that there were six death camps in Poland and Germany to amplify the horrific reality of lives exterminated.
There will be no further photos shared by me. We didn’t take but a few. It was a profound experience. Standing where prisoners guilty of being themselves (Polish dissidents or those who were future possible enemies of the German State ie Roma’s, homosexuals, 9 year old girls in the wrong place) undressed on command before walking to the gas chambers (placid dignity and misplaced hope on display), being told again of the complicit world that knew what was happening and did not find a way to stop “the final solution” sooner. Mary and I both had a visceral reaction to the display of huge piles of hair from the shorn heads of prisoners in Auschwitz that were sold back to German companies who made fabric from it – it seemed such a callous assault on their persons. The pretense and deceit until death of the promises of resettlement, telling them to put their names on the luggage for ease of getting it back when it was simply plundered. Selecting prisoners as slave laborers who were coerced into enriching the coffers of Nazi Germany or manufacturing the chemicals or munitions that supported the war and the death camps – until they could not work and were killed.
Truly crimes against humanity for which few were held accountable.
Krakow
Thought it time I appeared – this was yesterday in the Jagiellonian University Collegium Maius. The site of a Nazi round up of academics to blunt dissension.
Jewish Quarter Main Square
Today was a day more of experience than photos. We visited Schindler’s Factory Museum and began our journey into the history of the holocaust and the once large Jewish community of Krakow. It’s thought provoking. It’s beyond comprehension and yet real beyond my ability to believe. It also reveals to me again how little I know of Jewish religion and culture.
Then we spent time getting turned around in the small historic Jewish quarter, wandering street to street. We found we enjoyed the klezmer music floating across the square and the quiet, prayerful Old Jewish Cemetery (1552-1800) and intimate Remu’h Synagogue.
Each rock represents a prayer.
Our evening was spent in the company of other travelers with Camilla (Delicious Poland) on an extensive walking Polish food tour! Even after a walk home we’re satiated!! Between the new flavors (Rye Grass Vodka, Easter Sour Soup, Christmas Eve Beet Root Soup, Potato pancakes/latkes with Goulash, variations of their beloved pork lard spread which I’ve tried several times now and can live without) and the portions and courses we may not need to eat for days………
Zapiekanka – a yummy bread, cheese and mushroom bread. 
We nearly escaped two major downpours today! Thunder and lightning – the whole shabang !! And each time the sun burst out afterwards.
Walked home to work off some of the gluttony and plotted how to end our stay in Krakow without having leftover zlotney’s in our wallets when we leave Wednesday morning. This city has been more interesting than I’d expected. It’s much more than the city to make the pilgrimage to Auschwitz from.
Nostrovia!!!
(That’s what we wished each other as we downed shots of vodka – pronounced wodka here).
Central Europe 2019
Mary and I have waited a long time to make this trip. Originally scheduled September 2018, Vicki’s death in August caused us to postpone. My gratitude to my travel partner, Mary, for understanding my need to wait before we embarked.
Not unlike every other trip I take, more “to-do’s” than can get done the night before!!! It felt like more than usual yesterday, especially when my building had a full on fire alarm test from 7:30 a.m. on…… Neither Gaia or I were happy. Gaia is staying with the Nichols while I’m gone!
Travel went without difficulty and we’re pleased with Hotel Wawel and our initial night here in CRACOW/Krakow, Poland. The market is lovely and the architecture is shown off by 70’s and blue sky. We’re smiling!!
St Mary’s Church
Main Market Square
Jan Matejki/Painter in Planty Park ((Moat filled park ringing the city over the medieval walls). 
Florian Gate
Polish beer and a refreshing Polish drink called a “Mosquito” for some yet unknown reason!
Wawel castle
We’ve encountered pleasant, polite, helpful people at every turn -even Pawlik at the lost luggage desk charmed me. They speak English with ease which is a good thing since we’re butchering Polish!! It’s a warm experience so far. Dobranoc. And forgive my stumbling with a new blog app – I’ll get it before the trip ends!
Thanks for joining me!
Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton
