Europeans know how to do open air markets! And pain!! All I could do not to buy loaf upon loaf.
The market was probably half a mile long quayside on their riverfront esplanade. And it was a truly glorious day! We people watched, walked to the parliament building area, found an open air lunch and ambled back to our neighborhood.
A medieval city gate entrance. (Now it gets you to the shopping district!)
I spent some hours reading at the park just by our hotel near a small museum and botanical garden. Shared a bench with a friendly local man who seemed to know all the young families. Not an empty bench to be found. The park was packed and showed no sign of emptying by nearly 6pm when I left.
Gene and Mary found a lovely local Italian restaurant for dinner, Peppone. Great pasta and pizza for a change of pace.
Later off the mark today and simply in ride recovery mode – we earned it! Didn’t rain on us after all and we explored our local scene. Nice day!
Public Jardin just blocks from us!
This was next to a childrens marionette stage.
Very much a small “Central Park”. Imagine it predates it.
Mary and I snuck a tasting in at the Cite du Vin ( one up on Gene?). After lunch we headed by tram to the Cite du Vin. We’re on the eighth floor exterior tasting balcony
The architectural vision should have you seeing the swirl of wine in a glass!The Musee of Wine is in what looks like gentrified dock lands on the “blonde” Rive Garonne. It’s heavily silted and the color they describe as “blonde” is caused by the confluence of the ocean estuary and river merging. Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror) Quite the history of a wartime dismantled monument, Quinconces Fountain, discovered in Angers and returned in 1982.
Another wish of Gene’s fulfilled by Mary’s great tour planning.
We were a small, age diverse group of eight cycling oenophiles. A couple of New Zealanders who currently live in London (young man works at BBC), an “engaged on this trip” couple from Oklahoma, a well traveled Canadian retired tech businessman and academic and the three of us! Led by Tim, who lives in St Emilion with his wife and three sons where our cycling begins. He has two business partners we encountered and an office in Bordeaux as well.
Tim is also a 🥝 (New Zealander and I believe Māori) who played professional rugby for 12 years, much of it in London. So, a genial and interesting group.
We had pedal assist electric bikes (thank God). Took me a while to adapt – I’ve only riden Marys once last summer and then the late August day trip on the Columbia Gorge last year. And I may say the cobblestone in town gave me some moments!! But we made the entire trip safely – even with our generous tastings.
This was our first stop. The weather stayed overcast which was perfect for biking.
Chateau de Chambrun and Chateau Moncets – Lelande du Pomerol. Despite the pristine limestone exterior this is a venerable Chateau ( oh no, I’ve forgotten just how old !!) being restored for events. I spotted a fox on premises as we walked about!991Euros for this magnum!Many empty barrels waiting to be filled with this years harvest which is deemed to be a good one. Last years was rained out more or less with few grapes that escaped mildew and only a small production locally, especially in this biodiversitie winery establishment. Our tasting. New to us packaging – WITFollowed by on-site luncheon of local charcuterie selections. And wine, of course!!!!
And we’re off again! This time to a small family owned winery. Chateau Grouprie.
More working winery than chateau, it sits on high value Pomerol and “near” Pomerol appellation vines.Our selection.
Back into Saint Emilion and a tasting at Rustic Vines. They also operate a wine club.
We’ve had generous pours for tasting. I must confess my palate became a little dull with so many reds here at the end. The chateaus we visited are young establishments that our tour host considers to be emerging wines to enjoy!
We turned in our bikes at just before 4pm. Quite a day of cycling! And just to be sure I wasn’t feeling too self assured on my two wheeled steed, the last 50 ft of the ride has a hard, steep right on cobblestone – required my foot brake to be applied! But we all came out unscathed thanks to the wine gods!
Saint Emilion is an UNESCO heritage site in its own right and we had time for a quick walk to the centre. A wonderful experience and sense of cycling accomplishment. A full day – countryside, wine, getting schooled in the language of this famous wine region and enjoying the winds caress as we rode lovely small roads that traced the chateau boundaries. Ah, Bordeaux!
Gene requested walking be a feature of our trip and there is a trail next to the river that will take us to Domme. Domme sits atop a hill some 3 miles away from our base in La Roque.
Dordogne Rive just after sunrise. Perhaps you can see the early “tell”’of fall in the mist hanging over the river to the left. Across the river through a small commune of Cenac then up, up, up to Domme!Monument Historique. Porte du Bos. XIII siecle.
The gate to the city was a welcome site! On our way up the quiet neighborhood we encountered a woman cleaning her balcony who indicated through pantomime we’d be earning our drink at the top! She said “heavee” with a smile and a cup in her hand which we took to mean the walk would be hard or the drink should be large!! Her assessment wasn’t far off – we used the benches now and again on the way up (not needed coming down:)
The Dordogne Rive we followed, with LaRoque in the distance. A rare snap with Gene in it – he refuses photos. You can see fall in the trees. The householders must duck to enter!Swans on the Dordogne are a little camera shy but picturesque. Four or five balloons just outside our hotel as we walked for a drink a little way from the hotel. Gene made friends with the proprietors chien who could’ve played fetch for hours while a 4’ish year old Margot there was puzzled at the idiot adult who couldn’t speak intelligibly with her (namely me). She wanted to share her pomme du jus.
The meal was again stellar! And we were hungry after the hike! This is the region of foie gras – and I appreciated a starter of the dish poached in rouge wine before my maigre cuit a la plancha (a lovely piece of local fish) and another lovely confection of a dessert. Ouila!
So 8.49 miles and an upward climb of 558 feet that felt like more, but was rewarding for the views, the stillness of the walk at times by the river with the kayaks, canoes, paddle boards and tour bateau’s. A satisfying way to spend our day which earned us ……..
Another gorgeous meal, wonderful wine and a toast from Gene. “May this be the beginning of the never ending.”
Change in seasons, change in cities. Off to Bordeaux- the wine destination of Genes interest! Our travel goes well and we find ourselves staying within easy walking distance of the main place (plaza) where I’m sitting in a tranquil courtyard with water feature.
Outside my window on the morning of departure. Saying goodbye to La Roque. It was a lovely stay in every way!!!!The Palais Gallien on our Bordeaux St Jean street. Once a Roman amphitheater it became a spoil of war to the Gallien family. Sorry I’ve forgotten the date, but Roman. They held circuses, theatre and physical contests in class separated seating
This village sits nestled (more accurately built) into a limestone formation. It is truly a one road village, with a pedestrian walk back above the riverside properties. Have been for lunch before, but we’re settling in for a couple nights.
It sits along the Dordogne River. The bateau ride allows you the perspective of history, seeing the homes (now largely business enterprises) and the medieval Moyen Age caves used as homes. Even troglodytes lived here and nearby Cro-Magnon cave art exists. The last family to live in a cave did so until the early 1900’s (if I got that right) with their farm animals.
Hotel la Belle Etoille
We walked the village and saw the fort as well as the tropical plants (Banana Allee) that exist because of the limestones affinity for the sun and warmth it holds to create a Mediterranean microclimate. We did not scale the rocks up to the caves …….
Found a lovely space to read in back at the hotel. The new Joan of Arc book simply titled, Joan, with a little different take on the storyline.
This is definitely gourmand territory! The Perigord. Our hotel offers a Michelin rated restaurant with excellent food, wine and service!!! Not an everyday occurrence in my life! Exquisite. And lovely dining partners. Gene has become responsible for our wine selections – he hasn’t missed yet!
I had langostino raviolis as starter, carmelized veal shoulder with spinach and polenta and topped it off with a framboise meringue confection! To say nothing of the three amuse bouche (mouth pleasers), pumpkin mousse soupe and aperitif starts before the appetizers! Gorgeous food, river view from our table and a satiated Valorie!
Thoroughly enjoyed walking beyond the historic center this morning. The temp and sun were just right. Tried to find a chateau garden but never ran into it …… I’ll have to find it on another trip.
Otherwise, I walked by camping parks (Hutopia), gites (furnished rural vacation homes), inns, suburban outskirts and closer to Sarlat everything from a notaire office to a chiropractic office to the local CBD outlet. I was passed by both cyclists and others walking into the town for work. Very nice!
Small unused little chapel. The public jardin. Local billboard. Noticed two of these unique postings. They were outside both private residence walls and in town. This one announces the funeral of a 94 year old woman
A relaxing day of strolling the historic centre, walking into a local neighborhood and time in the piscine.
Sarlat Market HalleSeven ton doors now enclose Eglise Saint-Mairie gothic church. It’s the daily market now. Cathedral Saint-SacerdosXV11Craftsmen demonstrating the art of building the walls all around us in Sarlat. Place des OiesOnce their only water source. Their city mascot, the Salamander, seems rather to have been replaced by Foie Gras. Poolside beauties Mary and Valorie. Memorial to local WW11 dead across from our hotel. Hotel Madeleine. Bon nuit.
Rewarded by a beautiful ville after a train ride into the Dordogne valley. It’s a small enough cite that arrival at the train station finds us without taxi options to get into the historical centre we’ll be staying in. So……. a mile into town on foot with baggage! Perhaps our first “Lucy”! But as the trip was downhill it felt good to move and we treated ourselves to Aperol Spritz and a gorgeous charcuterie planchette unique to this region upon arrival to the Plaza Madeleine. Mary and I stayed here once before and remember it as an indulgent stay on our 2010 trip, but it is more luxuriant now and we’re staying several days!
On the walk to SarlatSarlat was having a festival , Une Patrimoine Sous Etoile, to celebrate sustainable cultural heritage. The event extended into the night with music, art and votive candles lighting the way through the maze of quaint streets and plazas. Beautiful!Outdoor courtyard dining at La Presendial.
And just to prove I’ve eaten something other than dessert……. Which is not to imply I didn’t have dessert…….
An excellent gazpacho prelude to the meal! (Which is of course the “entre” here to confuse you when choosing your “plat” or main!).
Another intimate favorite musee, the Rodin, is set in the Hotel Brion which became Auguste Rodin’s home in Paris. The sculpture garden begins with La Penseur (The Thinker), one of his most recognizable works. The garden is quiet and restful and you can tell from the fallen plane tree leaves autumn is not far off.
The Burghers of Calais are masterful representations of emotion. The Gates of Hell is fascinating and my immediate thought is that’s where I wish to send Trump post haste!
Gates of Hell
I appreciate his marble work, Basier, (The Kiss) and this time noticed his small works paying homage to the once beautiful but aging female body. Sculpture speaks to me.
Walked along the Rive Droite (Right Bank) and found the bridge, Pont Alma, Mary had read about and reminded her of her Aunt Alma. Walked among fallen chestnuts and enjoyed the Siene on the way back to our neighborhood.
Mary and I continued our afternoon in Parc Champ du Mars, viewing the Eiffel Tower and watching small groups of people picnic, take photographs and enjoy the space. We found a bench for people watching among some flowers and walking paths and just relaxed. Eventually made our way to a sidewalk cafe for tea and for Mary a chocolate chaud.
Gene and Mary treated me our last night in Paris to a birthday dinner at La Fountaine de Mars near our neighborhood. Famously the spot of a highly publicized date between Barack and Michelle on their first presidential trip to Paris, it is an unassuming bistro with a bit of a breeze this evening. I had a lovely duck breast in morel and fig sauce. And a very fine bottle of vin rouge from St. Emilon (an appellation we will soon visit). Though without candles, the desserts we shared were quite wonderful – a Floating Island of meringue and rum creme anglaise and a hazelnut layered confection. A fine way to end my celebration! Bon Nuit!!!
