Except we’d forgotten Beth was staying in a hotel round the block here, smooth going. First luggage transfer successful (with aforementioned realization of where Beth’s went:) and a lazy day. We encountered pleasant, fun hospitality staff. Leaving Begur while waiting for the taxi, a housekeeper leaned out of the window above us to get a converter to us – dropped it down to a man walking by, but it wasn’t ours! We were chatting with reception staff here in Hotel Terramar who suggested we could cheat on our next leg ………. We laughed heartily together over our unanimous response of “We already did – today”!! Then she told us “Solo una vez/only once”😉. We’re not above breaking or bending that rule!

LlaFranc is a pretty affluent, manicured little bay marina and hotel location. When we got here some water sport competition and DJ music greeted us. A fun, if raucous, kind of vibe at first that slowly turned into quieter coast retreat.

Excellent lunch away from the music! Topped off with gelato, naturally ………

And a nice marina walk to end the day.

Begur turned out to be a nice surprise for me – I hadn’t expected the ambience or sophistication. Glad of the two day stay to explore!

But getting here was loads of fun too courtesy of our “Citizen of the World” driver, Liam. Born in the US, of Spanish and Irish parents, he holds passports in each country and the UK and has plenty of family stories to tell. Of course Beth would run into an Irishman for a grandfather with a history of clandestine activities in the “Troubles”, a bit of time playing with the Dubliners (but before they hit the big time) and a mother and grandmother he now lives near here in Spain!!!! It was fun. He also danced around politics for a while until we revealed our disgust and embarrassment at Trump. He believes Trump has damaged our regard in the world (Duh!!) but says he hasn’t yet in his three years in hospitality here encountered a Trumper. (He believes they don’t travel or have an international perspective:)

But Begur was hopping for a four day holiday, which included Fiesta Nacional de España / Día de la Hispanidad and a film festival!

We joined the beautiful people in the historic centre and became part of the tapas crowd. Might have included a couple of beers and G&T’s if I remember right!

And of course we walked the red carpet before heading to bed !

Begur Day 2

This was our first day walking. Gorgeous coastline, generally effective smartphone tracked trail, but we beg to differ at the walk descriptor “Easy”.

You confirm the digital navigation with the signage and international walkers coded “painted markers”.

And then the terrain and elevation gain discouraged photography! The recent rain contributed to eroded trail conditions and even some scree to walk across. We ultimately ”lost“ our trail even though it was within feet of our gps location. Who knows, but we followed the small coastal road back to Begur and picked up our breadcrumb trail to the hotel – a very welcome site! “Our” rogue trail added a little over 1000ft of elevation and was half mile or so shorter. I was fagged! There are “incidents that shall not be named” behind this end of trail story……

Saying goodbye to Begur the next day was leisurely and relaxing. I’m listening to the local church bells as I write. Birds are talking. The weather is lovely and we chose not to take today’s walk which was the most strenuous of them all (I’d been advocating even before our departure). But we’re well, happy to be meandering the town and looking forward to more Catalan coastline!!

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Everything does look better under blue skies!

We leave Girona today, but not without walking the city under blue skies😊. Just look at that intense blue!

We had some nice interactions with young people out and about. Kenza, a charming young student from Australia on a gap year and a small group of hijab wearing women who staged a photo on one of the ponts (bridges). Kenza visited after taking our photo for quite a while. The women communicated with beautiful smiles – they were exotic!

We had to laugh at our expectations before we left. Wanted to add the Murales of Girona to our sites, but wound round in the warrens of the city for way too long. We finally found contemporary examples of what we had variously thought would be historical mosaics, ancient etchings or religious murals. Beth made extensive effort to get us to them – they were elusive. Probably because we found these, instead of what we “expected”.

Our departure from the city got a little tense despite having been very well planned in advance. The hybrid hotel we were in didn’t staff reception until 2pm, but had ordered our cab the day before and provided us a code to enter and pick up our lockered bags. Except they didn’t work and efforts to reach their emergency contacts were poorly responded to. Finally a Whats App stream of texts got us sorted and to our pick up! Took all three of us scrambling and making calls to leave – it all worked out.

Girona was a really good way to start our trip. New to us, approachable, and as my young train friend expressed, a “romantic place, iluminar la noche”.

The warmth and blue skies of Girona are hidden today. We’re leaving our hotel with hoods and umbrellas. We’re staying right in the historical center of this atmospheric city, but the weather went from drizzling to downfall, accompanied by thunder until maybe 6pm. Our waterproof jackets and shoes got a trial for the walk ahead if needed. Girona is a historic, walled city with a Catedral and beautiful grounds (we’re pretty sure they’d look better with blue sky behind them though).

After one particularly heavy drenching we were offered a refuge in a cozy restaurant, L’Arros, where the owner made us a soupy paella he recommended and made fresh for us from a fresh fish display. The bread and warmth were welcome before we headed to a nap 💤

Following the rousing thunderstorms we headed to the “poorer cousin” of a family of restaurants, El Cellar de can Roca (Michelin ranked and lauded as “possibly the worlds best restaurant recently and booking a year in advance.). We chose to visit their Normal restaurant (since we don’t plan that far in advance) and found it anything but normal! https://restaurantnormal.com/en/. We dined leisurely from 8-11:15 and by Spanish standards began early!! It was a special treat! Our hands down fav was the exquisite salad!!!! Beth and I ordered from the “sampling” menu and were a little jealous of Mary’s full salad!!!

Ah, a satiating evening on a “Normal” corner in Girona!

So, we survived our first day of travel – things went well. We’re in Espana!!! Even the hook up with Beth at SeaTac was slick. (Don’t know exactly how we did it, but we ended up on separate flights PDX-SEA after adding Beth to the trip post medical clearance from her ophthalmologic surgeon. Made for whirlwind bookings!!).

Turns out my superpower is still sleeping on the plane. Neither Mary or Beth slept at all – Beth watched 3 movies and Mary listened to 60’s music. I slept about 5-6 hours of the 9 hour flight. But it was a long day – mostly getting from Barcelona to Girona, a smaller walled city with lots of atmosphere. It was our destination for the day. The new EES system added 35 minutes to leaving the airport. Well, that and another half hour “losing“ Beth after luggage pick up! We got separated when seeking directions on our train from Barcelona. Mary and I were unwilling to leave the airport proper until we found her ….. Beth went rogue! Luckily Beth got the same directions we did – she even got to the shuttle that got us to the train station first! We finally connected by text and she was waiting for us at the airport Renfe connection to the high speed train!!

We knew before leaving that rain was going to be a complication. It was. More than we thought. Landslides in the Valencia region south of us created a suspension in train service near there without estimated return. There was also a bus strike somewhere that added to the mix. I think I counted three tv stations broadcasting from the train station – Beth photo bombed at least one:). Wayfinding in the train station wasn’t as straightforward as usual in international settings. That or our brains were fried….

We had to find a way to buy our ticket – normally not a problem per our travel guru, Rick Steves. A kind English speaking man overheard us discussing an approach and put us in the know about a DMV/Baskin Robbin’s’ “take a ticket” crowd control for ticket purchases. He said he’d spent an hour figuring that out! Thank god he gave us instructions! Our ticket (Mary found the English language kiosk🎉) was 605 and the one being served was 556. Some more waiting – we’re still having “605 PTSD”.

Compensation for the wait came in the form of a delightful young 18 year old man on the train. I engaged him over the homemade lasagna he pulled out to eat -would he like to share? Never offered but praised his mom’s lasagna and chatted with us for much of the trip:).

We settled and wandered a little in the old city this evening. Able to have some tapas and wine outdoors and begin to wind down. And topped them off with gelato!!! I recommend flavors Taorima and Nicciola!

When we laid our heads on our pillows we were out in moments!

So, Beth and Mary are my traveling companions on this adventure! And it ought to be an interesting one. We’re doing an “inn to inn” walk on the Mediterranean coastline north of Barcelona. We’ve evaluated distances, elevations and all manner of things as we planned. We’ll see if it’s enough. Compared to my solo walk on the Cinque Terre, these things now happen with navigation on your phone. We’re self guided and will be bumbling around between beaches and forestland. Can’t wait!

Pringle Creek as dusk arrived.

We traveled well together! It’s a first time for Mary and I to make an international journey with Beth! She resisted for quite a while after the extended invitation to say “Yes”, so we made some quick room changes and we were off!

Three same style Baggellini travel purses with Beth adding a taupe color variety to our old practical standby black ones.

I know my travel partners always make my trips richer and that they tolerate my unique and sometimes irritating “Valorie” behaviors with grace. I’m so glad to finally get to go see another part of the world with such special friends. The last time I was in Italy it was for my 60th and I walked the Cinque Terre on my own.

So, “the toes” made the trip in a single pair of black Hokas. Seven months post surgical, 3 months after the pins that extended beyond the 2nd/3rd toes on my right foot were removed leaving only a new, fancy metal plate across my metatarsals. It’s been awhile now since we got home and though I was much put out while packing, I don’t remember much about my recovering foot really, except that only one pair of shoes leaves room for other things and it’s hard to visualize yourself as a sophisticated traveler who may wear only practical shoes. I did take a gel pack that isn’t my first choice of item to use valuable luggage real estate. Perhaps Beth and Mary remember more about my toes during the trip than I do, as I know I had some days that my toes let me know I was doing a lot and I slowed or shortened our excursions about Puglia and Sicily I’m sure … they tolerated me very graciously. I was the one with the newest implant, but Mary and Beth got security check attention for their new joints! All reminders that we’re lucky to have the health (and procedures 😉) that make our travels possible.

I am a woman with much to express gratitude for …… friends, cat sitters and the ability to enjoy new adventures.

Worth the return to Rome to add Puglia and Sicily to my travelogue. Italy is an easy place to relax into a different mindset. Out of time in a way. Unique and full of encounters with it’s people, it’s food, wine, aperol spritzes and a few challenges and disruptions in plans to keep me aware the world does things differently from my place at 295. As with other times away to find I’m a good kind of tired and happy to settle into my condo life with Nyx and my simple Salem joys!

May 18-22nd

Mary had not been to Rome despite her visits to Italy with both myself and Gene for their anniversary. We stayed in the Campo Fiori neighborhood and walked everywhere.

Found myself musing about trips with Harold to Rome. We nearly had the fountain to ourselves one romantic night years ago ♥️♥️♥️ and we sat and people watched from the Spanish Steps with a gelato! In their defense Rome is now rather overrun with tourists if our experience so far is any gauge. I can empathize with Venice’s efforts to control crowds and charge a visitor fee.

We did get inside the Pantheon. It was the outside being restored and we skipped a big line without breaking the rules. Tried to share our tip afterwards with those patiently waiting and waiting – they didn’t believe us.

The Coliseum and Forum are fascinating places. And signal the end of our travel. They’re really remarkable.

But this picture tells you all you need to know about Rome ….. we packed a lot in!

I even ordered two gelatos by mistake at Gelaterie Giolitti, the best gelato establishment (per our inn keeper – it was old, cool and had a long line). I thought I ordered “due misurini” or two scoops. Nope, each cone starts at two scoops! What a conundrum! I had to toss one before they both melted all over me!!!!!

SALUTE!

To Puglia, to Sicily, to Rome and to travel!

Getting there was an experience – walking among many headed to St Peter’s Square.

Even with a reserved tour the Vatican is a very different experience than my now long ago visits. The crowds are much larger and Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel is teeming with tourists in the morning. It has been restored since Harold and I visited, colors now so vivid it was well worth it – even among so many others. It’s a magnificent artistic work nearly beyond comprehension. Photos not allowed, so you’ll need to take the tour or just take my word for it!

This visit I enjoyed the Vatican gardens – can’t even remember if we saw them before. Peaceful and full of sculpture. This Pope is not in residence in the Vatican, but in a nearby more modest abode. Something you can admire him for.

The interior is always a valuable lesson in history and the arts

I’ve a bit of a thing for beautifully tiled floors….

And on to St Peter’s Basilica.

And more floors ……..

A good day. A little more contemplative.

Upon the recommendation of Bo, Beth’s landscape architect brother, we ventured to Tivoli to see the garden estate of a Cardinal of the same last name. Just 18 miles outside Rome it was quite an adventure to get there!

We decided to use the Metro and bus, but the Metro line was 5 miles from our lodging, so we came up with the brilliant, caffeine inspired plan to use the taxi for the first leg.

Up first at the taxi stand was a woman driver likely our senior. Someone’s grandma for sure in a male dominated profession. We thought she understood the destination, but she didn’t really hit the mark. She tried to drop us at a hotel near it, but was quite confused. I finally spied a Metro marker and just said “uscita” or exit and we got out! We’re pretty sure she didn’t have a clue. She used her rather antiquated GPS and also asked a passer by! (🤞she got safely back to the neighborhood taxi stand). A short walk to the local Tabac to inquire and a trip one stop back on the metro line for us to get going! A little travel adventure🙃

There are going to be a lot of Giardino (Garden) photos. It’s hard to try to put some form to the experience. It’s an expansive garden that used water in pretty magical ways (from music to drainage of a decorative nature). It was overcast but really quite nice. Relaxed – a good break from city exploration. Here we go:

The centerpiece of the garden is the Fontana dell’Organo (Organ or hydraulic fountain). Gorgeous just to look at, it opened to play music – a major accomplishment in 1572 by French designers.